Fuel Sender Issues

This Tech Tip is provided courtesy of Howard Halasz – noted early ‘Wing Guru. Howard is a frequent contributor of technical columns and other information to GWRRA’s Wing World Magazine. This Tech Tip applies to any 4 cylinder GoldWing (GL1000, GL1100 or GL1200). 

“OK! Now that you’ve overhauled your carburetors using your Randakk’s® Master Carb Overhaul Kit and installed them on your Gold Wing, you find out that your Wing now performs better than it ever did since you owned it. You check the lights, turn signals, horn, tachometer, temperature gauge, brakes, and turn signals. Everything looks and sounds great!! Then you notice that your fuel gauge shows EMPTY, although you have a full tank.

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GL1100 Bogs Down at Full Throttle

This Tech Tip is provided courtesy of Howard Halasz – noted GL1100 Guru. Howard is a frequent contributor of technical columns and other information to GWRRA’s Wing World Magazine. This Tech Tip applies to any 4 cylinder GoldWing (GL1000, GL1100 or GL1200).

If your GL1100 Gold Wing bogs down at full throttle, there are two possible causes.

1. If your air cutoff valves were never replaced since the bike was new, the air cutoff valve diaphragms might be compromised. This can cause a number of carb maladies including “bogging” at full throttle.

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GL1100 Accelerator Pump Testing

Check out our GL1100 Carburetor Repair Manual written by Howard Halasz

This Tech Tip is provided courtesy of Howard Halasz – noted early ‘Wing Guru. Howard is a frequent contributor of technical columns and other information to GWRRA’s Wing World Magazine.

Note from Randakk: This information and much more is covered in Howard’s Honda GL1100 Gold Wing Carburetor Repair Guide.

Before you finish reassembly of your carburetors during a rebuild, you need to check the operation of the accelerator pump.

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Make Your Own Starter Relay Cover

You probably haven’t spent much time pondering the little plastic guard that covers the top of your starter relay (the little gizmo mounted on the right side of the battery). Hopefully, yours is intact. This is not just a cosmetic piece. It’s a very important safety device, which protects the heavy starter and battery terminals from accidentally grounding against the adjacent frame.

Unfortunately, this part (35857-371-000) has been discontinued by Honda. If yours is missing, here’s an easy solution.

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Final Drive Leak Fix

Note from Randakk: This information applies to GL1000, GL1100, GL1200 and GL1500 models. It is likely applicable to any motorcycle equipped with a drive shaft and hypoid final drive gears that run in a bath of heavy gear oil.

It’s a common complaint and fact: early ‘Wings are prone to nuisance seal leaks in the final drive units (especially GL1000s).

At first, this is usually just an annoyance and may keep your wheel, tire and garage floor messy. However, as the leak worsens, it can becomes a serious safety concern. I’ve actually seen enough final drive gear oil escape that it got onto the tire tread and rear brake pads. That’s an obvious safety issue that can’t be ignored!

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Old School Carb Cleaning Methods

If you’ve watched my GL1000 Carb Rebuild Video, you know that I’m strongly opposed to total immersion chemical carb cleaning methods. The very harsh ingredients in these “buckets of doom” are bad for your carbs, your health and the environment. The lubricating/sealing felts used on the throttle and choke butterfly shafts on GL1000 carbs are particularly vulnerable to such abuse.

Heaven forbid you were to carelessly dunk your GL1100 carbs in one of these buckets. Your air-cutoff valves as well as the accelerator pump would quickly be history if they were left in place. Sadly, GL1100 air cut-off valves and accelerator pumps are frequently ruined by indiscriminate use of carb cleaners (even with no dunking) due to their vulnerable locations.

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Fuel Tank Service – Don’t Get “Kreemed!”

When you go to the time, effort and expense to rebuild your carbs, they will have absolutely pristine innards. It would be a crime to connect them to a contaminated fuel tank. Now’s the time to evaluate the condition of your fuel tank. At a minimum, drain or siphon all the old fuel out. The drain plug is located near the rear master cylinder. Obviously, do this outdoors to avoid fire hazard.

Once the fuel is out, you can see the inside through the filler next with a strong flashlight (somewhat easier in a dark garage, so you may want to push the bike back indoors for this step). I usually remove the fuel sending unit for a better view inside the tank…but, this means you will need a new gasket for the sending unit. Note: the only sealant I’ve found that will prevent the threads of the drain plug from leaking (even with the OEM crush washer) is Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant.

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Hard Starting

March 21, 2007 Update: A weak starter can cause hard starting in a perfectly tuned bike if does not spin fast enough. Details here

Is your GL1000 hard to start after sitting idle for only a week or so? This is a very common complaint … even for specimens that are perfect in every mechanical, ignition and carburetion respect. My own bike does this too. Here’s why.

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