You might consider this item: Randakk’s GL1000 Carb Rebuild Video
Throttle cable replacement on GL1000s is a straightforward operation, but there is a trick I will share which makes it much easier to accomplish.
Important: take careful note of throttle cable routing through the frame, around the steering head and up past the headlight bucket. Since GL1000s (like most bikes) were shipped to dealers partially assembled when new, the dealer was supposed to finish the assembly according to a detailed “Set-Up Guide.” Unfortunately, the personnel assigned to this task were often slack or creative in their approach to this task. I’ve had some arguments with owners of bikes who would swear that since they bought the bike new and their throttle cables, brake hoses, etc. came routed a certain way “from the factory” that they would insist on routing replacement parts the same way…even when I showed them the correct routing from the set-up manual. When in doubt, refer to the Factory Shop Manual or Set-up Guide.
Correct throttle operation is vital for safe operation. Also, I’ve had drivability complaints (such as hesitation or bog) from riders which would normally point to carburetion or ignition problems which actually were solved by throttle cable replacement. The action of a clean, well-lubed, non-kinked throttle set-up should be silky and smooth. Excess resistance results in abrupt action at the actual throttle butterflies which makes it difficult to ride smoothly. The throttle should snap closed crisply from full open to closed under its own spring power when released. NEVER defeat the engineered-in safety by eliminating the “push” (return) cable.
Attachment for both the push and pull cables at the twist grip end is conventional and intuitively obvious. Attachment at the carburetor bell crank linkage end is quite another matter. Easy to see, but hard to get a wrench in position to use. One reputable guru actually recommends removing the entire carb assembly just to remove the throttle cables. Not only is this unnecessary, it actually buys practically no additional access and puts undesirable stress and strain on the cables. Here’s how I do it:
First, remove the air cleaner assembly from the plenum. Next, locate the throttle cable with the mid-point adjuster. Loosen the locknut and rotate the barrel to add max. slack to the outer cable housing. Now the trick…using a 10 mm CROWS-FOOT wrench on a long extension, loosen the lock nut on the pull cable where it attaches to the carb assembly (this is the top cable at the carb). Perform this step from the right (fuel pump) side of the bike. With the crows-foot wrench, this is quite easy. If you don’t own a set of crows-foot wrenches, here’s your excuse. You’ll be amazed at how handy they can be on occasion.
(Note: I’m well aware that you can accomplish this task without a crow’s foot wrench by maneuvering a 10 mm wrench though the opening in the top shelter lid (after the air box is removed). I find my method much easier. Plus, if you ever need to remove / attach the “pull” throttle cable for any reason without disturbing the air box – my method allows this as well.)
The push cable is easy. Remove with two 10 mm open-end wrenches from the left (starter) side of the bike. Stubby wrenches make this a little easier. Once both cables are free from the carb assembly, you can remove the cables from the handlebar twist grip assembly as necessary to the task at hand.
Re-install in reverse order. Before you ride, test for binding by twisting the bars lock to lock with the engine idling. If handlebar movement affects the idle speed, it is imperative that you investigate and correct before riding. If you have an aftermarket windshield or fairing installed be certain that it does not interfere with throttle operation.
I definitely recommend stock OEM Honda throttle cables over aftermarket products. Honda cables are sized precisely for each application. Other cables fit a range of models. This is especially a problem with the ’75 and ’76 models which have flatter bars than the LTD and later bikes. Many aftermarket cables are simply too long for the early bikes.
One final issue. Could you execute a “kill switch” shut down if required? Practice locating this switch while riding and be prepared in case your throttle ever hangs wide open!
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