World’s Best GL1000 Kit!
This kit is proprietary to Randakks…you won’t find this available anywhere else at any price.
Unlike ordinary aftermarket kits, each Randakks kit provides everything listed for all 4 carbs plus other items required for splitting and rejoining the carbs to replace the cross-carb fuel transfer tubes.
Only the highest quality items are included. This kit has been thoroughly tested and represents the best value available in the market.
Trust us, you’ll need everything in this kit to do a proper overhaul of your carbs.
GL1000 Model Identification
- All 1975 – 1979 GL1000 with original carbs will require our 100-1228 kit.
Kit Components
Viton O-rings:
4x Fuel (idle) mixture screw (2.8 x 1.9 mm)
4x Float valve assembly – (seat) – (5.7 x 1.3 mm)
4x Float bowl drain screw – (4.47 x 1.78 mm)
4x Primary main jet (3.2 x 1.1 mm)
4x Secondary main jet (4.2 x 1.1 mm)
4x Large carb-to-plenum (air) O-ring – (60.0 x 2.1 mm) – (this one looks “square” on the Honda parts diagram)
4x Intake manifold (40.0 x 2.6 mm)
Gaskets:
4x Fiber-reinforced float bowl gasket
4x Air jet cover gasket
Petcock Rebuild Kit:
1x Petcock disk
2x Petcock-to-fuel tank seals
Miscellaneous Parts:
4x Special Carb-to-Plenum Fuel Seals
1x Randakk’s exclusive Viton GL1000 plenum gasket
4x Randakk’s exclusive carb “pucks”
4x Viton rubber blanking plugs – (cover access to idle fuel jet)
1x Air Cutoff Valve Overhaul Kit
6x 1 mm cotter pins for linkage – (simple item, but hard to find elsewhere)
4x “E-clips” required for ’75 linkage
5x Special screws and lock washers in 2 lengths to rejoin the plenum halves – (These are high-quality zinc-plated screws…not soft crap like the originals)
Parts Total: 68 total pieces
Please refer to the GL1000 Master Carb Kit Parts Location Diagram Tech Tip for proper location of these parts.
All O-rings Are Not The Same!
The round o-rings in each Master Kit are made of Viton rather than ordinary nitrile (Buna-N) as found in other aftermarket carb kits. One good case of severe engine overheating can ruin the carb o-rings found in ordinary kits? Randakk’s o-rings are the best available!
Viton is superior to nitrile in terms of:
- Heat tolerance (400 degrees F vs. 250 degrees F)
- Compression set
- Permeation
We even include rebuild kits for the air cut-off valves as required for each application.
Recommendation
You will need access to good reference material for a successful rebuild, such as the official Honda Factory Workshop Manual.
There is some critical information there on rejoining and aligning the carb bodies to prevent binding of the throttle and choke shafts…very important!
We highly recommend pairing this kit with the world-famous Randakks GL1000 Master Carb Rebuild DVD.
Quick Notes:
All GL1000 Master Kits supplied by Randakk’s Cycle Shakk have fiber-reinforced float bowl gaskets to prevent problems associated with non-reinforced float gaskets. Some non-reinforced gaskets have proven to be reactive with some gasoline formulations and can sometimes swell to the point that float operation can be adversely affected. Fiber-reinforced (calendarized) synthetic rubber overcomes these issues.
No jets or jet needles are supplied with our kits. These can normally be cleaned and reused. “Dress” the jet tower cavities with crocus cloth or similar to remove oxidation and burrs, then use a lubricant like Vaseline to insert the main jets.
No float valve/seat assemblies in our kit.
No fuel filter is included. But it would be a crime to redo your carbs and not take prudent measures to ensure a pure fuel supply!
While you are at it, you should replace your fuel hoses as these can sometimes disintegrate from the inside out and be a source of fuel contamination in the form of small rubber fragments. We recommend that you purchase a length of high-quality 1/4″ fuel injection hose. You will need 3 sections: 1 piece 160 mm long and 2 pieces 150 mm long. The long piece goes from the fuel pump to the carbs…the short pieces go on either side of the fuel filter. Don’t forget to flush your fuel pump. Debris can collect here as well.
If you don’t split the plenum and renew these critical parts during your overhaul, you may have regrets later.
Considerable skill is required to install this high-quality kit correctly. Since Randakk’s cannot control this important variable, there is no warranty on these. Rest assured that they are of the highest quality materials and workmanship. Each kit has been carefully packed and inspected to ensure that all items are included.
Not sure can handle your own rebuild? Then, check out Randakk’s Approved Carb Rebuilder Program.
To read more reviews on this and other products visit our Review Site, https://www.randakksreviews.com
Hi
I have an issue with the fast idle. When I open the throttle to just over 1000 rpm, the motor will rev up to 2500 rpm and stay there, I literally have to push hard on the idle screw to get it to go back down. the bike currently idles at about 600rpm. If I adjust the idle screw up to 1000 rpm same problem, I have to unscrew the idle screw to bring the revs back down Could this be a problem with the pilot jets being gummed up!. The bike has been sitting for seversl months. I have changed the 4 air jets from 110 to 98. I bought the bike from an auction as it appeared to be fully restored condition, Any ideas would be welcome before I go nuts!
Mine is doing the same thing. Did you find a solution?