You can never go wrong with OEM Honda parts. Fit, function, and reliability are never an issue. If you have a show bike, authenticity requirements dictate that you stick with Honda parts wherever possible. Of course, if show judges are looking at things like your timing belts, then you have bigger problems!
The following chart lists reasonable substitutes that have performed well for me and many others. This information is available elsewhere, but I decided to post it here for convenience since I’m often asked. Prices are considerably less than the equivalent Honda parts.
GL1000 Part | Equivalent Substitute |
Ballast Resistor | The original Honda part #34930-371-003 can be replaced by: NAPA (Echlin) Ballast Resistor #ICR13 See additional important details here |
Swingarm Bearings | The original Honda part #91071-371-003 interchanges with: Toyo BK2518L or SKF 2518RS available at any bearing supplier |
Handlebar Attach Bolt “Beauty Plug”(for 8 mm Allen head bolt)Honda Part #91456-371-770 (discontinued) | Kawasaki Part #92066-1216 (for Concours and others) |
Instrument Panel Bulbs | Sylvania #1445 or equivalent |
Stainless Brake Hose Sets | See: Brake Hose Sets |
Rear Brake Hose (substitute) | NAPA #UBP38132 NAPA #UTS4138132 (same as above but about 1/2 price) Carquest #sp5898These are designed to fit:
These are about 2″ longer than OEM (now discontinued), but have the correct fittings on each end and work nicely. You will need to shorten and reflare the metal pipe which connects the hose to the master cylinder (“double” flaring tool required). Thanks to Mike Crawford and Jeff Maltby for passing along this tip. |
Timing Belts | Gates #T274 NAPA #250274 Goodyear Gatorback #40274 (available at AutoZone and others) |
Radiator Hoses | NAPA #7733 Gates #21008 CarQuest #21029 (made by Gates) (1 hose does both upper and lower.) |
Radiator Cap | STANT #10229 NAPA/Belkamp: 703-1445 |
Thermostat | NAPA #101 STANT #13868 Carquest #32438 Honda (automobile) #19300BP2024 (all should be 180 degree models, with 52 mm mounting flange and by-pass relief port) |
Oil Filter (OEM cartidge type) | FRAM #CH 6009 PUROLATOR #ML16809 EMGO #10-37500 |
Turn Signal Flasher | STANT #552 NAPA #552 Federal Mogul #552 (Most 12V, 2 wire standard flashers will work. I like these because they are very compact.) |
Spark Plug Caps | NGK model #XD05F (or the improved version #XD05FPwith more waterproof boots) These are functionally equivalent to OEM. The only difference is the raised white NGK logo on the side.To make the plug retainer seals fit better, grind off the NGK logos. You can buy a set of these caps here |
Cam Seals | The original Honda part #91209-371-003 Oil Seal (27X43X9) can be replaced by:Napa ATM 2117994Reference Product Line: AltromNote: the same part is used on all GL1000s and GL1100s (3 on 1000s and 2 on GL1100s). |
substitution for a 1977 gl1000 Goldwing fuel sending unit.
Hello, is there a good alternative to the stock 77 GL1000 rear back Master Cylinder?
the NAPA cam seal, both ends of left cam & front of right use same seal? Fuel pump drive? I haven’t taken it apart yet, trying to ensure I have what I need before disassembly. Thanks for your help
Hi
I am having trouble finding any big end shell bearings for my 1975 GL 1000, I have got new crank main bearing shells just can find the con rod big end shell bearings would you guys have any or tell me where I can get them.
Would any other Honda model of the same era and size use the same shells?
Thanks
Those are very scarce, but try the NOS resources listed here:
http://www.randakksblog.com/links/
The brake hose set from Sirius Consolidate now comes as three equal length, 21 inch, hoses which make the upper hose a little too long for the shorter ’75 bars. Have they changed something?
Jerry: That’s news to me. I recommend you contact them (ask for Chris) and have them review the current specs for that item to see if their supplier made an error.
according to Napa, there has been a supercession on the radiator cap. New part number (that cross references the number listed) is 703-1697
The part number above is still valid. The part number you mention is for an alternate packaging variation. Both yield the same cap.
Figures, When I got the cap for my 76 rebuild, they had the new number, and not the old one…. Packaging I could care less about, I just wanted the cap.